Thursday 31st January
Got the Shinkansen back to Tokyo where I headed off to Kamakura, a town situated about an hour away famously known for its big Buddha. What I found quite interesting was that unlike the UK, the food on the trains in Japan is highly regarded, with people keen to try out the bento box of the area. I decided however to opt for a Starbucks instead.
Kamakura is a really cute town with the main shopping streets lit up with lanterns and most of the main attractions accessible by foot. I visited a couple of shrines and temples today including one set admidst a bamboo forest which was impressive. The rest I plan to cover off tomorrow before heading back to Tokyo for the weekend.
Thursday, 31 January 2008
Wednesday, 30 January 2008
Kegon Falls
Wednesday 30th January
Woke up this morning to discover bright blue sky and loads of snow! Nikko is a world heritage city so spent a lovely morning wandering around the sites from the red laquered sacred Shin-ko bridge (allegedly built to represent a buddhist in the 8th century who was helped across the river by two snakes who formed a bridge then vanished, likely story..) to the Tosho-gu shrine and Rinno-ji temple.
Wandering along the lake to the Gaman-ga fuchi abyss where 50 buddhas were all lined up covered in snow was a pretty amazing sight (photos to follow I promise, but not of the Onsen as Robin requested you will be pleased to hear!)
I then took a bus about 40 minutes out of Nikko to Lake Chuzenji and the Kegon Falls. I got very twitchy as the route consisted of loads of hairpin bends (mum you would have hated it) and what with all the snow I was worried we would skid.
Sat 1300m above sea level it was absolutely freezing, although the views of the lake and the waterfall were well worth it. Plus I made friends with a nice French lady so had lunch and walked around together which made a change.
With feet like iceblocks from wandering around in all the snow I made my way towards Karuizawa where I was intending to visit the Asama-Yama volcano. I should have questioned myself when a Japanese lady on the train befriended me and said that there wasn`t much to do North of Tokyo in the winter except ski, but I pressed on nevertheless.
Well she was right. Karuizawa although beautiful was isolated (there were very few skiers their either, despite the fact that the train drops you off at the foot of the slopes). Plus the route to the volcano was shut in winter for the first time as a trial due to lack of demand (great!).
With little else to do beside admire their Christmas decorations (yes they keep them up until Spring apparently) I headed to bed deciding to leave as soon as possible in the morning. I bet the locals were thinking stupid Gaijin (foreigner)...
Woke up this morning to discover bright blue sky and loads of snow! Nikko is a world heritage city so spent a lovely morning wandering around the sites from the red laquered sacred Shin-ko bridge (allegedly built to represent a buddhist in the 8th century who was helped across the river by two snakes who formed a bridge then vanished, likely story..) to the Tosho-gu shrine and Rinno-ji temple.
Wandering along the lake to the Gaman-ga fuchi abyss where 50 buddhas were all lined up covered in snow was a pretty amazing sight (photos to follow I promise, but not of the Onsen as Robin requested you will be pleased to hear!)
I then took a bus about 40 minutes out of Nikko to Lake Chuzenji and the Kegon Falls. I got very twitchy as the route consisted of loads of hairpin bends (mum you would have hated it) and what with all the snow I was worried we would skid.
Sat 1300m above sea level it was absolutely freezing, although the views of the lake and the waterfall were well worth it. Plus I made friends with a nice French lady so had lunch and walked around together which made a change.
With feet like iceblocks from wandering around in all the snow I made my way towards Karuizawa where I was intending to visit the Asama-Yama volcano. I should have questioned myself when a Japanese lady on the train befriended me and said that there wasn`t much to do North of Tokyo in the winter except ski, but I pressed on nevertheless.
Well she was right. Karuizawa although beautiful was isolated (there were very few skiers their either, despite the fact that the train drops you off at the foot of the slopes). Plus the route to the volcano was shut in winter for the first time as a trial due to lack of demand (great!).
With little else to do beside admire their Christmas decorations (yes they keep them up until Spring apparently) I headed to bed deciding to leave as soon as possible in the morning. I bet the locals were thinking stupid Gaijin (foreigner)...
Tuesday, 29 January 2008
Owakudani Volcano
Tuesday 29th January
The best way of discovering the Hakone region is to buy a pass which gives you access to a route which includes bus, pirate ship across the Ashino-ko lake, cable car, funicular tram and train. The scenery was amazing and if it had been a clearer day and not so overcast from the snow and rain I would have been able to see so much more.
Nevertheless it was a great day and due to the lack of tourists I got my own cable car up to the Owakudani volcano where I got out to walk up to the viewing deck and see where all the hot springs originate. My ears popped on the way up as it`s a height of 1044m.
After completing the sightseeing tour of the area I decided to warm up and stop off at another onsen (especially as I knew the format). It was set in the trees and was really relaxing just to sit and unwind for half an hour. The rain was actually quite refreshing too, when sat in a bath of hot water.
After that I set off for Nikko arriving just before 7pm. I was warned that things shut early in the town but wasn`t quite expecting to arrive at an almost deserted station with no way of knowing how to get to the centre, or anyone who spoke any English. After a while I managed to relay to a taxi driver that I hadn`t a reservation and could he just take me somewhere. And here I am in a basic but clean inn (recommended in the guide books with free internet access). However as everything was shut I had to settle with dinner from the 7/11 store. Lets hope I do better tomorrow night.
The best way of discovering the Hakone region is to buy a pass which gives you access to a route which includes bus, pirate ship across the Ashino-ko lake, cable car, funicular tram and train. The scenery was amazing and if it had been a clearer day and not so overcast from the snow and rain I would have been able to see so much more.
Nevertheless it was a great day and due to the lack of tourists I got my own cable car up to the Owakudani volcano where I got out to walk up to the viewing deck and see where all the hot springs originate. My ears popped on the way up as it`s a height of 1044m.
After completing the sightseeing tour of the area I decided to warm up and stop off at another onsen (especially as I knew the format). It was set in the trees and was really relaxing just to sit and unwind for half an hour. The rain was actually quite refreshing too, when sat in a bath of hot water.
After that I set off for Nikko arriving just before 7pm. I was warned that things shut early in the town but wasn`t quite expecting to arrive at an almost deserted station with no way of knowing how to get to the centre, or anyone who spoke any English. After a while I managed to relay to a taxi driver that I hadn`t a reservation and could he just take me somewhere. And here I am in a basic but clean inn (recommended in the guide books with free internet access). However as everything was shut I had to settle with dinner from the 7/11 store. Lets hope I do better tomorrow night.
Onsen Initiation
Monday 28th January
About an hour an half out of Tokyo is the region of Hakone, a popular weekend break location for the Japanese. I was originally intending to stop off at the Fuji Five Lakes first, but due to the amount of snow was aware that I was unlikely to see much, and it would have been too dangerous to climb nearby.
Hakone instead offered a number of attractions which I would experience tomorrow (as you need to start early to fit it all in).
Before arriving I did stop off at the camera shop as some of you may have noticed the distinct lack of photos. Unfortunately I seem to have mislaid my USB cable so have had to order another which should arrive next week fingers crossed.
The plan for today was to visit a theme park onsen (a Japanese hot spring bath) which Daniel told me about. This included a coffee, green tea and red wine filled baths as well as slides and other attractions. However feeling it might be more fun if this was experienced with a few mates I instead decided to opt to stay in a traditional Japanese Ryokan instead, which included use of their onsen in the price.
Accommodation in a Ryoken consists of an empty room with rice straw matting (tatami) and a low table with cushions around it in the middle. Assembling my bed from the bits and pieces hidden away behind the sliding doors was amusing and I felt a bit like princess and the pea, not sure how many mattresses were optimum to lie on top of each other for a good nights sleep (whatever the answer I didnt achieve it).
As for the onsen after checking into my room I wandered nervously downstairs. I had read the rules (which said no towels or tatoos to name a few) so thought I knew what to expect as walked inside to wash before getting in. However it seemed everyone did possess a small cloth or towel of sorts to cover up as they wandered between the baths and were looking oddly at me strutting around without one. I therefore quickly beavered away to fetch mine....
About an hour an half out of Tokyo is the region of Hakone, a popular weekend break location for the Japanese. I was originally intending to stop off at the Fuji Five Lakes first, but due to the amount of snow was aware that I was unlikely to see much, and it would have been too dangerous to climb nearby.
Hakone instead offered a number of attractions which I would experience tomorrow (as you need to start early to fit it all in).
Before arriving I did stop off at the camera shop as some of you may have noticed the distinct lack of photos. Unfortunately I seem to have mislaid my USB cable so have had to order another which should arrive next week fingers crossed.
The plan for today was to visit a theme park onsen (a Japanese hot spring bath) which Daniel told me about. This included a coffee, green tea and red wine filled baths as well as slides and other attractions. However feeling it might be more fun if this was experienced with a few mates I instead decided to opt to stay in a traditional Japanese Ryokan instead, which included use of their onsen in the price.
Accommodation in a Ryoken consists of an empty room with rice straw matting (tatami) and a low table with cushions around it in the middle. Assembling my bed from the bits and pieces hidden away behind the sliding doors was amusing and I felt a bit like princess and the pea, not sure how many mattresses were optimum to lie on top of each other for a good nights sleep (whatever the answer I didnt achieve it).
As for the onsen after checking into my room I wandered nervously downstairs. I had read the rules (which said no towels or tatoos to name a few) so thought I knew what to expect as walked inside to wash before getting in. However it seemed everyone did possess a small cloth or towel of sorts to cover up as they wandered between the baths and were looking oddly at me strutting around without one. I therefore quickly beavered away to fetch mine....
Sunday, 27 January 2008
Swan Pedalo's
Sunday 27th January
Have had a lovely day today wandering around KitchiJogi (a town about 15 minutes train journey from Caroline's house). We spent the day with a couple of Caroline's friends from school walking around the park, mooching in the market stalls, lunching and even decided to race each other on the lake in some childlike swan pedalo's. Needless to say Caroline and I managed to get stuck in a tree, much to the amusement of the others on the lake.
KitchiJogi has also got some great shops too so we did a bit of furniture shopping (for Caroline of course. Don't worry I'm not intending on shipping any sofas back to the UK).
I now need to spend a bit of time working out my route for next week so that I know where I am heading tomorrow
Have had a lovely day today wandering around KitchiJogi (a town about 15 minutes train journey from Caroline's house). We spent the day with a couple of Caroline's friends from school walking around the park, mooching in the market stalls, lunching and even decided to race each other on the lake in some childlike swan pedalo's. Needless to say Caroline and I managed to get stuck in a tree, much to the amusement of the others on the lake.
KitchiJogi has also got some great shops too so we did a bit of furniture shopping (for Caroline of course. Don't worry I'm not intending on shipping any sofas back to the UK).
I now need to spend a bit of time working out my route for next week so that I know where I am heading tomorrow
The Lock-up
Saturday 26th January
Met up with Daniel today which was lovely. We took the train about an hour out of a Tokyo to Mount Takao. After stopping off for a bowl of Ramen we spent the afternoon climbing the mountain (don't worry it wasn't too strenuous), yet the view from the top was fab. Sadly had it been a bit clearer we could have seen Mt Fiji, yet we could still see a long way.
It was really nice to catch up and it made a nice change to have a companion on my sightseeing trips. It was also great to quiz Daniel on all the weird and wonderful Japanese cuisines and cultures that I have been experiencing over the last week or so yet have had no idea of what they were.
Caroline and some of her friends were going out to a themed restaurant for dinner so I tagged along too. Well it certainly was something completely different to what you would experience back home. Situated in a basement of a department store you wander in through a series of tiny alleyways where things jump out at you, the floor moves and all you can hear are screams and weird noises. By the time you reach the reception everyone is a little unnerved as to what we have actually turned up to.
The restaurant itself contains a series of small rooms set behind bars, where we sat crossed legged on the floor (Japanese style) after being led in by handcuff. The drinks are served in test tubes, needles and other weird objects (although none of us could quite work out how this related to the jail theme). Everything else seemed quite normal after that until half way through dinner all the lights went out and weird music blared out and guys in masks kept creeping up on us. Although I am glad I have experienced such an evening I don't think I will be repeating it again in a hurry. So the Alice in Wonderland and Ninja themed restaurants will have to wait.
Met up with Daniel today which was lovely. We took the train about an hour out of a Tokyo to Mount Takao. After stopping off for a bowl of Ramen we spent the afternoon climbing the mountain (don't worry it wasn't too strenuous), yet the view from the top was fab. Sadly had it been a bit clearer we could have seen Mt Fiji, yet we could still see a long way.
It was really nice to catch up and it made a nice change to have a companion on my sightseeing trips. It was also great to quiz Daniel on all the weird and wonderful Japanese cuisines and cultures that I have been experiencing over the last week or so yet have had no idea of what they were.
Caroline and some of her friends were going out to a themed restaurant for dinner so I tagged along too. Well it certainly was something completely different to what you would experience back home. Situated in a basement of a department store you wander in through a series of tiny alleyways where things jump out at you, the floor moves and all you can hear are screams and weird noises. By the time you reach the reception everyone is a little unnerved as to what we have actually turned up to.
The restaurant itself contains a series of small rooms set behind bars, where we sat crossed legged on the floor (Japanese style) after being led in by handcuff. The drinks are served in test tubes, needles and other weird objects (although none of us could quite work out how this related to the jail theme). Everything else seemed quite normal after that until half way through dinner all the lights went out and weird music blared out and guys in masks kept creeping up on us. Although I am glad I have experienced such an evening I don't think I will be repeating it again in a hurry. So the Alice in Wonderland and Ninja themed restaurants will have to wait.
Beans, beans, beans
Friday 25th January
Got up extremely early this morning to visit Hiemji castle en route back to Tokyo. With a bit of time to spare before the castle opened I decided to treat myself to a cake and cup of tea. I already knew the tea was going to be a disappointment as the Japanese only have coffee mate (the horrible creamy stuff in plastic cartons) however the cake looked lovely. Biting into it I was gutted to discover what I thought were currants were actually red beans (similar to kidney beans but sweet) ughh! I have since discovered that they are a speciality of the region and are in everything, so will be avoiding these again at all cost.
The castle was stunning. Set on the hillside 15 minutes walk from the station it is referred to as the 'white egret' . The castle is one of the few surviving medieval castles in Japan which didn't burn down at some stage and is so impressive it has been used as the backdrop for many films including James Bond 'You only live twice'. Due to the lack of tourists I managed to get my own private two-hour guided tour which was nice.
Got the shinkansen back to Tokyo. I love the way they run like clockwork and are rarely late. Also if anyone is inconsiderate enough to throw themselves in front of a train their families are fined severely as a result.
Caroline and I went out for dinner to a Yakatori restaurant (which literally means meat on a stick) before coming home to watch a DVD with tubs of ice-cream. Bliss!
After a crash course in history I have decided to take in a few more geographical points of interest next week so watch this space...
Got up extremely early this morning to visit Hiemji castle en route back to Tokyo. With a bit of time to spare before the castle opened I decided to treat myself to a cake and cup of tea. I already knew the tea was going to be a disappointment as the Japanese only have coffee mate (the horrible creamy stuff in plastic cartons) however the cake looked lovely. Biting into it I was gutted to discover what I thought were currants were actually red beans (similar to kidney beans but sweet) ughh! I have since discovered that they are a speciality of the region and are in everything, so will be avoiding these again at all cost.
The castle was stunning. Set on the hillside 15 minutes walk from the station it is referred to as the 'white egret' . The castle is one of the few surviving medieval castles in Japan which didn't burn down at some stage and is so impressive it has been used as the backdrop for many films including James Bond 'You only live twice'. Due to the lack of tourists I managed to get my own private two-hour guided tour which was nice.
Got the shinkansen back to Tokyo. I love the way they run like clockwork and are rarely late. Also if anyone is inconsiderate enough to throw themselves in front of a train their families are fined severely as a result.
Caroline and I went out for dinner to a Yakatori restaurant (which literally means meat on a stick) before coming home to watch a DVD with tubs of ice-cream. Bliss!
After a crash course in history I have decided to take in a few more geographical points of interest next week so watch this space...
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