Thursday 31st January
Got the Shinkansen back to Tokyo where I headed off to Kamakura, a town situated about an hour away famously known for its big Buddha. What I found quite interesting was that unlike the UK, the food on the trains in Japan is highly regarded, with people keen to try out the bento box of the area. I decided however to opt for a Starbucks instead.
Kamakura is a really cute town with the main shopping streets lit up with lanterns and most of the main attractions accessible by foot. I visited a couple of shrines and temples today including one set admidst a bamboo forest which was impressive. The rest I plan to cover off tomorrow before heading back to Tokyo for the weekend.
Thursday 31 January 2008
Wednesday 30 January 2008
Kegon Falls
Wednesday 30th January
Woke up this morning to discover bright blue sky and loads of snow! Nikko is a world heritage city so spent a lovely morning wandering around the sites from the red laquered sacred Shin-ko bridge (allegedly built to represent a buddhist in the 8th century who was helped across the river by two snakes who formed a bridge then vanished, likely story..) to the Tosho-gu shrine and Rinno-ji temple.
Wandering along the lake to the Gaman-ga fuchi abyss where 50 buddhas were all lined up covered in snow was a pretty amazing sight (photos to follow I promise, but not of the Onsen as Robin requested you will be pleased to hear!)
I then took a bus about 40 minutes out of Nikko to Lake Chuzenji and the Kegon Falls. I got very twitchy as the route consisted of loads of hairpin bends (mum you would have hated it) and what with all the snow I was worried we would skid.
Sat 1300m above sea level it was absolutely freezing, although the views of the lake and the waterfall were well worth it. Plus I made friends with a nice French lady so had lunch and walked around together which made a change.
With feet like iceblocks from wandering around in all the snow I made my way towards Karuizawa where I was intending to visit the Asama-Yama volcano. I should have questioned myself when a Japanese lady on the train befriended me and said that there wasn`t much to do North of Tokyo in the winter except ski, but I pressed on nevertheless.
Well she was right. Karuizawa although beautiful was isolated (there were very few skiers their either, despite the fact that the train drops you off at the foot of the slopes). Plus the route to the volcano was shut in winter for the first time as a trial due to lack of demand (great!).
With little else to do beside admire their Christmas decorations (yes they keep them up until Spring apparently) I headed to bed deciding to leave as soon as possible in the morning. I bet the locals were thinking stupid Gaijin (foreigner)...
Woke up this morning to discover bright blue sky and loads of snow! Nikko is a world heritage city so spent a lovely morning wandering around the sites from the red laquered sacred Shin-ko bridge (allegedly built to represent a buddhist in the 8th century who was helped across the river by two snakes who formed a bridge then vanished, likely story..) to the Tosho-gu shrine and Rinno-ji temple.
Wandering along the lake to the Gaman-ga fuchi abyss where 50 buddhas were all lined up covered in snow was a pretty amazing sight (photos to follow I promise, but not of the Onsen as Robin requested you will be pleased to hear!)
I then took a bus about 40 minutes out of Nikko to Lake Chuzenji and the Kegon Falls. I got very twitchy as the route consisted of loads of hairpin bends (mum you would have hated it) and what with all the snow I was worried we would skid.
Sat 1300m above sea level it was absolutely freezing, although the views of the lake and the waterfall were well worth it. Plus I made friends with a nice French lady so had lunch and walked around together which made a change.
With feet like iceblocks from wandering around in all the snow I made my way towards Karuizawa where I was intending to visit the Asama-Yama volcano. I should have questioned myself when a Japanese lady on the train befriended me and said that there wasn`t much to do North of Tokyo in the winter except ski, but I pressed on nevertheless.
Well she was right. Karuizawa although beautiful was isolated (there were very few skiers their either, despite the fact that the train drops you off at the foot of the slopes). Plus the route to the volcano was shut in winter for the first time as a trial due to lack of demand (great!).
With little else to do beside admire their Christmas decorations (yes they keep them up until Spring apparently) I headed to bed deciding to leave as soon as possible in the morning. I bet the locals were thinking stupid Gaijin (foreigner)...
Tuesday 29 January 2008
Owakudani Volcano
Tuesday 29th January
The best way of discovering the Hakone region is to buy a pass which gives you access to a route which includes bus, pirate ship across the Ashino-ko lake, cable car, funicular tram and train. The scenery was amazing and if it had been a clearer day and not so overcast from the snow and rain I would have been able to see so much more.
Nevertheless it was a great day and due to the lack of tourists I got my own cable car up to the Owakudani volcano where I got out to walk up to the viewing deck and see where all the hot springs originate. My ears popped on the way up as it`s a height of 1044m.
After completing the sightseeing tour of the area I decided to warm up and stop off at another onsen (especially as I knew the format). It was set in the trees and was really relaxing just to sit and unwind for half an hour. The rain was actually quite refreshing too, when sat in a bath of hot water.
After that I set off for Nikko arriving just before 7pm. I was warned that things shut early in the town but wasn`t quite expecting to arrive at an almost deserted station with no way of knowing how to get to the centre, or anyone who spoke any English. After a while I managed to relay to a taxi driver that I hadn`t a reservation and could he just take me somewhere. And here I am in a basic but clean inn (recommended in the guide books with free internet access). However as everything was shut I had to settle with dinner from the 7/11 store. Lets hope I do better tomorrow night.
The best way of discovering the Hakone region is to buy a pass which gives you access to a route which includes bus, pirate ship across the Ashino-ko lake, cable car, funicular tram and train. The scenery was amazing and if it had been a clearer day and not so overcast from the snow and rain I would have been able to see so much more.
Nevertheless it was a great day and due to the lack of tourists I got my own cable car up to the Owakudani volcano where I got out to walk up to the viewing deck and see where all the hot springs originate. My ears popped on the way up as it`s a height of 1044m.
After completing the sightseeing tour of the area I decided to warm up and stop off at another onsen (especially as I knew the format). It was set in the trees and was really relaxing just to sit and unwind for half an hour. The rain was actually quite refreshing too, when sat in a bath of hot water.
After that I set off for Nikko arriving just before 7pm. I was warned that things shut early in the town but wasn`t quite expecting to arrive at an almost deserted station with no way of knowing how to get to the centre, or anyone who spoke any English. After a while I managed to relay to a taxi driver that I hadn`t a reservation and could he just take me somewhere. And here I am in a basic but clean inn (recommended in the guide books with free internet access). However as everything was shut I had to settle with dinner from the 7/11 store. Lets hope I do better tomorrow night.
Onsen Initiation
Monday 28th January
About an hour an half out of Tokyo is the region of Hakone, a popular weekend break location for the Japanese. I was originally intending to stop off at the Fuji Five Lakes first, but due to the amount of snow was aware that I was unlikely to see much, and it would have been too dangerous to climb nearby.
Hakone instead offered a number of attractions which I would experience tomorrow (as you need to start early to fit it all in).
Before arriving I did stop off at the camera shop as some of you may have noticed the distinct lack of photos. Unfortunately I seem to have mislaid my USB cable so have had to order another which should arrive next week fingers crossed.
The plan for today was to visit a theme park onsen (a Japanese hot spring bath) which Daniel told me about. This included a coffee, green tea and red wine filled baths as well as slides and other attractions. However feeling it might be more fun if this was experienced with a few mates I instead decided to opt to stay in a traditional Japanese Ryokan instead, which included use of their onsen in the price.
Accommodation in a Ryoken consists of an empty room with rice straw matting (tatami) and a low table with cushions around it in the middle. Assembling my bed from the bits and pieces hidden away behind the sliding doors was amusing and I felt a bit like princess and the pea, not sure how many mattresses were optimum to lie on top of each other for a good nights sleep (whatever the answer I didnt achieve it).
As for the onsen after checking into my room I wandered nervously downstairs. I had read the rules (which said no towels or tatoos to name a few) so thought I knew what to expect as walked inside to wash before getting in. However it seemed everyone did possess a small cloth or towel of sorts to cover up as they wandered between the baths and were looking oddly at me strutting around without one. I therefore quickly beavered away to fetch mine....
About an hour an half out of Tokyo is the region of Hakone, a popular weekend break location for the Japanese. I was originally intending to stop off at the Fuji Five Lakes first, but due to the amount of snow was aware that I was unlikely to see much, and it would have been too dangerous to climb nearby.
Hakone instead offered a number of attractions which I would experience tomorrow (as you need to start early to fit it all in).
Before arriving I did stop off at the camera shop as some of you may have noticed the distinct lack of photos. Unfortunately I seem to have mislaid my USB cable so have had to order another which should arrive next week fingers crossed.
The plan for today was to visit a theme park onsen (a Japanese hot spring bath) which Daniel told me about. This included a coffee, green tea and red wine filled baths as well as slides and other attractions. However feeling it might be more fun if this was experienced with a few mates I instead decided to opt to stay in a traditional Japanese Ryokan instead, which included use of their onsen in the price.
Accommodation in a Ryoken consists of an empty room with rice straw matting (tatami) and a low table with cushions around it in the middle. Assembling my bed from the bits and pieces hidden away behind the sliding doors was amusing and I felt a bit like princess and the pea, not sure how many mattresses were optimum to lie on top of each other for a good nights sleep (whatever the answer I didnt achieve it).
As for the onsen after checking into my room I wandered nervously downstairs. I had read the rules (which said no towels or tatoos to name a few) so thought I knew what to expect as walked inside to wash before getting in. However it seemed everyone did possess a small cloth or towel of sorts to cover up as they wandered between the baths and were looking oddly at me strutting around without one. I therefore quickly beavered away to fetch mine....
Sunday 27 January 2008
Swan Pedalo's
Sunday 27th January
Have had a lovely day today wandering around KitchiJogi (a town about 15 minutes train journey from Caroline's house). We spent the day with a couple of Caroline's friends from school walking around the park, mooching in the market stalls, lunching and even decided to race each other on the lake in some childlike swan pedalo's. Needless to say Caroline and I managed to get stuck in a tree, much to the amusement of the others on the lake.
KitchiJogi has also got some great shops too so we did a bit of furniture shopping (for Caroline of course. Don't worry I'm not intending on shipping any sofas back to the UK).
I now need to spend a bit of time working out my route for next week so that I know where I am heading tomorrow
Have had a lovely day today wandering around KitchiJogi (a town about 15 minutes train journey from Caroline's house). We spent the day with a couple of Caroline's friends from school walking around the park, mooching in the market stalls, lunching and even decided to race each other on the lake in some childlike swan pedalo's. Needless to say Caroline and I managed to get stuck in a tree, much to the amusement of the others on the lake.
KitchiJogi has also got some great shops too so we did a bit of furniture shopping (for Caroline of course. Don't worry I'm not intending on shipping any sofas back to the UK).
I now need to spend a bit of time working out my route for next week so that I know where I am heading tomorrow
The Lock-up
Saturday 26th January
Met up with Daniel today which was lovely. We took the train about an hour out of a Tokyo to Mount Takao. After stopping off for a bowl of Ramen we spent the afternoon climbing the mountain (don't worry it wasn't too strenuous), yet the view from the top was fab. Sadly had it been a bit clearer we could have seen Mt Fiji, yet we could still see a long way.
It was really nice to catch up and it made a nice change to have a companion on my sightseeing trips. It was also great to quiz Daniel on all the weird and wonderful Japanese cuisines and cultures that I have been experiencing over the last week or so yet have had no idea of what they were.
Caroline and some of her friends were going out to a themed restaurant for dinner so I tagged along too. Well it certainly was something completely different to what you would experience back home. Situated in a basement of a department store you wander in through a series of tiny alleyways where things jump out at you, the floor moves and all you can hear are screams and weird noises. By the time you reach the reception everyone is a little unnerved as to what we have actually turned up to.
The restaurant itself contains a series of small rooms set behind bars, where we sat crossed legged on the floor (Japanese style) after being led in by handcuff. The drinks are served in test tubes, needles and other weird objects (although none of us could quite work out how this related to the jail theme). Everything else seemed quite normal after that until half way through dinner all the lights went out and weird music blared out and guys in masks kept creeping up on us. Although I am glad I have experienced such an evening I don't think I will be repeating it again in a hurry. So the Alice in Wonderland and Ninja themed restaurants will have to wait.
Met up with Daniel today which was lovely. We took the train about an hour out of a Tokyo to Mount Takao. After stopping off for a bowl of Ramen we spent the afternoon climbing the mountain (don't worry it wasn't too strenuous), yet the view from the top was fab. Sadly had it been a bit clearer we could have seen Mt Fiji, yet we could still see a long way.
It was really nice to catch up and it made a nice change to have a companion on my sightseeing trips. It was also great to quiz Daniel on all the weird and wonderful Japanese cuisines and cultures that I have been experiencing over the last week or so yet have had no idea of what they were.
Caroline and some of her friends were going out to a themed restaurant for dinner so I tagged along too. Well it certainly was something completely different to what you would experience back home. Situated in a basement of a department store you wander in through a series of tiny alleyways where things jump out at you, the floor moves and all you can hear are screams and weird noises. By the time you reach the reception everyone is a little unnerved as to what we have actually turned up to.
The restaurant itself contains a series of small rooms set behind bars, where we sat crossed legged on the floor (Japanese style) after being led in by handcuff. The drinks are served in test tubes, needles and other weird objects (although none of us could quite work out how this related to the jail theme). Everything else seemed quite normal after that until half way through dinner all the lights went out and weird music blared out and guys in masks kept creeping up on us. Although I am glad I have experienced such an evening I don't think I will be repeating it again in a hurry. So the Alice in Wonderland and Ninja themed restaurants will have to wait.
Beans, beans, beans
Friday 25th January
Got up extremely early this morning to visit Hiemji castle en route back to Tokyo. With a bit of time to spare before the castle opened I decided to treat myself to a cake and cup of tea. I already knew the tea was going to be a disappointment as the Japanese only have coffee mate (the horrible creamy stuff in plastic cartons) however the cake looked lovely. Biting into it I was gutted to discover what I thought were currants were actually red beans (similar to kidney beans but sweet) ughh! I have since discovered that they are a speciality of the region and are in everything, so will be avoiding these again at all cost.
The castle was stunning. Set on the hillside 15 minutes walk from the station it is referred to as the 'white egret' . The castle is one of the few surviving medieval castles in Japan which didn't burn down at some stage and is so impressive it has been used as the backdrop for many films including James Bond 'You only live twice'. Due to the lack of tourists I managed to get my own private two-hour guided tour which was nice.
Got the shinkansen back to Tokyo. I love the way they run like clockwork and are rarely late. Also if anyone is inconsiderate enough to throw themselves in front of a train their families are fined severely as a result.
Caroline and I went out for dinner to a Yakatori restaurant (which literally means meat on a stick) before coming home to watch a DVD with tubs of ice-cream. Bliss!
After a crash course in history I have decided to take in a few more geographical points of interest next week so watch this space...
Got up extremely early this morning to visit Hiemji castle en route back to Tokyo. With a bit of time to spare before the castle opened I decided to treat myself to a cake and cup of tea. I already knew the tea was going to be a disappointment as the Japanese only have coffee mate (the horrible creamy stuff in plastic cartons) however the cake looked lovely. Biting into it I was gutted to discover what I thought were currants were actually red beans (similar to kidney beans but sweet) ughh! I have since discovered that they are a speciality of the region and are in everything, so will be avoiding these again at all cost.
The castle was stunning. Set on the hillside 15 minutes walk from the station it is referred to as the 'white egret' . The castle is one of the few surviving medieval castles in Japan which didn't burn down at some stage and is so impressive it has been used as the backdrop for many films including James Bond 'You only live twice'. Due to the lack of tourists I managed to get my own private two-hour guided tour which was nice.
Got the shinkansen back to Tokyo. I love the way they run like clockwork and are rarely late. Also if anyone is inconsiderate enough to throw themselves in front of a train their families are fined severely as a result.
Caroline and I went out for dinner to a Yakatori restaurant (which literally means meat on a stick) before coming home to watch a DVD with tubs of ice-cream. Bliss!
After a crash course in history I have decided to take in a few more geographical points of interest next week so watch this space...
Thursday 24 January 2008
Shrine Island
Thursday 24th January
I know I go on about the weather but it went and snowed today. Arriving at the Peace Memorial Park with snowflakes falling around me was quite something.
Hiroshima (which means wide island) is obviously known for one thing and that is literally the only reason sadly why you would visit the city, as there are very few other attractions. For those of you who don`t know, on the 6th August 1945 an atom bomb exploded above the city killing around 140,000 directly, or from burns, wounds and radiation. The park houses a museum, a remembrance hall and a number of statues as tributes to those who died. Plus the A-bomb Dome, one of the only buildings to survive (albeit a shell) the attack. Very harrowing yet informative at the same time.
After an intense morning I headed over to Miyajima (otherwise known as shrine island) for a bit of light relief. As we disembarked the ferry we were greeted by deer who roam freely and are surprisingly tame.The main shrine on the island is the Itsukushima Jinga where its gates appear as if they are floating, dependant on the tide.
The island is also known for its oysters so not one to miss out decided to order a portion of baked ones for lunch. Although I have eaten oysters in the past they were a bit more than I could stomach today and leaving behind a taste of the sea in my mouth I wished I hadn`t bothered.
Travelling back on the tram I couldn`t help but observe that the city rebuilt itself remarkably quickly after the war ended and there really aren`t any obvious signs, even on the outskirts. I also noticed that outside of the capital the Japanese are definitely not as fashion conscious! I also discovered that the masks that I had thought were to prevent pollution are actually worn when you have a cold. If that is a case maybe we should adopt them in the UK, at least that way we may not spread bugs around the office as freely.
Off out to find somewhere for dinner tonight and maybe if I am really lucky someone who can understand me too. Until next time...
I know I go on about the weather but it went and snowed today. Arriving at the Peace Memorial Park with snowflakes falling around me was quite something.
Hiroshima (which means wide island) is obviously known for one thing and that is literally the only reason sadly why you would visit the city, as there are very few other attractions. For those of you who don`t know, on the 6th August 1945 an atom bomb exploded above the city killing around 140,000 directly, or from burns, wounds and radiation. The park houses a museum, a remembrance hall and a number of statues as tributes to those who died. Plus the A-bomb Dome, one of the only buildings to survive (albeit a shell) the attack. Very harrowing yet informative at the same time.
After an intense morning I headed over to Miyajima (otherwise known as shrine island) for a bit of light relief. As we disembarked the ferry we were greeted by deer who roam freely and are surprisingly tame.The main shrine on the island is the Itsukushima Jinga where its gates appear as if they are floating, dependant on the tide.
The island is also known for its oysters so not one to miss out decided to order a portion of baked ones for lunch. Although I have eaten oysters in the past they were a bit more than I could stomach today and leaving behind a taste of the sea in my mouth I wished I hadn`t bothered.
Travelling back on the tram I couldn`t help but observe that the city rebuilt itself remarkably quickly after the war ended and there really aren`t any obvious signs, even on the outskirts. I also noticed that outside of the capital the Japanese are definitely not as fashion conscious! I also discovered that the masks that I had thought were to prevent pollution are actually worn when you have a cold. If that is a case maybe we should adopt them in the UK, at least that way we may not spread bugs around the office as freely.
Off out to find somewhere for dinner tonight and maybe if I am really lucky someone who can understand me too. Until next time...
En route to Hiroshima
Wednesday 23rd January
Before heading off to Hiroshima there were still a few sites that I still wanted to see in Kyoto, especially the Nijojo castle, which had been shut yesterday. The castle with its double moats, massive walls and watch towers took 23 years to complete and is quite an impressive building to look around.
It would have been more pleasurable however if it hadn`t been raining. OK I know I moaned about being cold yesterday but it is better than being soggy. One amusing sight to behold is that a large majority of the Japanese cycle to get from one place to another and due to the amount of traffic on the roads and the size of the roads themselves, they opt for the pavement, weaving in and out of the pedestrians. However when its raining they try and juggle riding the bike in one hand, with holding an umbrella in another - very amusing. Even those guys who think they are too cool for school possess an umbrella but its clear (as if that makes it any more manly).
After the castle I headed to the Kiyomizu temple built next to a waterfall which when you take a sip cures all illnesses according to the legend. The final stop of the morning was the Toji temple famous for its 5 storey pagoda (the tallest in Japan).
Trains weren`t quite as frequent as I would have liked as the rail pass is only valid on certain trains, which unfortunately meant an hours wait. Thus arriving in Hiroshima after the tourist info had shut damn!
Nevermind I managed to locate a map and navigate my way to the main shopping district where some lady took pity on me struggling to work out what street I was on and directed me to a hotel. The only downside was there were only smoking rooms left. Bring on the smoking ban is all I can say.
Before heading off to Hiroshima there were still a few sites that I still wanted to see in Kyoto, especially the Nijojo castle, which had been shut yesterday. The castle with its double moats, massive walls and watch towers took 23 years to complete and is quite an impressive building to look around.
It would have been more pleasurable however if it hadn`t been raining. OK I know I moaned about being cold yesterday but it is better than being soggy. One amusing sight to behold is that a large majority of the Japanese cycle to get from one place to another and due to the amount of traffic on the roads and the size of the roads themselves, they opt for the pavement, weaving in and out of the pedestrians. However when its raining they try and juggle riding the bike in one hand, with holding an umbrella in another - very amusing. Even those guys who think they are too cool for school possess an umbrella but its clear (as if that makes it any more manly).
After the castle I headed to the Kiyomizu temple built next to a waterfall which when you take a sip cures all illnesses according to the legend. The final stop of the morning was the Toji temple famous for its 5 storey pagoda (the tallest in Japan).
Trains weren`t quite as frequent as I would have liked as the rail pass is only valid on certain trains, which unfortunately meant an hours wait. Thus arriving in Hiroshima after the tourist info had shut damn!
Nevermind I managed to locate a map and navigate my way to the main shopping district where some lady took pity on me struggling to work out what street I was on and directed me to a hotel. The only downside was there were only smoking rooms left. Bring on the smoking ban is all I can say.
Temple-tastic
Tuesday 22nd January
It was bitterly cold this morning and despite being wrapped up in many layers with scarf, gloves and hat I was still freezing. First stop of the day was the Imperial Palace (you can only look round the palace as part of an organised tour and there are only a few a day). I was hoping as a result that I might meet some fellow travellers, but no such luck, as was joined by a handful of Japanese, a couple of American couples and a German couple neither of whom wanted to engage in any conversation.
The palace itself (built in the mid 19th century was interesting, especially the history behind it and the gardens were stunning. Funny enough the palace is no longer used due to it having no source of power and on a day like today I`m not surprised.
Next stop was the Heian Shrine, similar in size to Tokyo`s key shrine (Meiji Jingu) however it is set in much nicer surroundings. The stepping stones across the lake were used as a backdrop to the film Memoirs of a Geisha apparently.
I then spent the next couple of hours on a walking tour of the eastern part of the city (along the Philosphers Path) stopping off at the Nanzenji Temple, Eikan-do Temple, and Ottoyo Shrine before finally winding up at the Ginkaku-ji Temple. Set at the top of the hill this was the far the most impressive of them all. Known as the silver pavillion for obvious reasons.
I spent the evening exploring the Gion district famous for its Geishas and Maikos ( trainee geishas) However due to the weather I only spotted one on the street inviting people inside and too shy to venture in any other establishments on my own I gave it miss and stuck to the covered market stalls with the pretty lanterns instead. Much safer..
It was bitterly cold this morning and despite being wrapped up in many layers with scarf, gloves and hat I was still freezing. First stop of the day was the Imperial Palace (you can only look round the palace as part of an organised tour and there are only a few a day). I was hoping as a result that I might meet some fellow travellers, but no such luck, as was joined by a handful of Japanese, a couple of American couples and a German couple neither of whom wanted to engage in any conversation.
The palace itself (built in the mid 19th century was interesting, especially the history behind it and the gardens were stunning. Funny enough the palace is no longer used due to it having no source of power and on a day like today I`m not surprised.
Next stop was the Heian Shrine, similar in size to Tokyo`s key shrine (Meiji Jingu) however it is set in much nicer surroundings. The stepping stones across the lake were used as a backdrop to the film Memoirs of a Geisha apparently.
I then spent the next couple of hours on a walking tour of the eastern part of the city (along the Philosphers Path) stopping off at the Nanzenji Temple, Eikan-do Temple, and Ottoyo Shrine before finally winding up at the Ginkaku-ji Temple. Set at the top of the hill this was the far the most impressive of them all. Known as the silver pavillion for obvious reasons.
I spent the evening exploring the Gion district famous for its Geishas and Maikos ( trainee geishas) However due to the weather I only spotted one on the street inviting people inside and too shy to venture in any other establishments on my own I gave it miss and stuck to the covered market stalls with the pretty lanterns instead. Much safer..
Kyoto!
Monday 21st January
It took longer than anticipated to arrive in Kyoto as by the time I had navigated my way around the maze that is Tokyo station, reserve a seat and find the platform it was 3pm before I arrived in Kyoto, only to discover an equally large station with no directions or anyone who could understand me to point me in the direction of the tourist information. I have since discovered that the Japanese don`t speak as much English as I thought!
The lady at the tourist info (when I eventually found it) was very helpful though and booked me a room for the night and gave me an armful of maps for navigating myself around the city.
However as most of the attractions shut at 4pm in the winter there was no point venturing far so had a quick bite to eat and decided to set off early the following morning to explore instead....
It took longer than anticipated to arrive in Kyoto as by the time I had navigated my way around the maze that is Tokyo station, reserve a seat and find the platform it was 3pm before I arrived in Kyoto, only to discover an equally large station with no directions or anyone who could understand me to point me in the direction of the tourist information. I have since discovered that the Japanese don`t speak as much English as I thought!
The lady at the tourist info (when I eventually found it) was very helpful though and booked me a room for the night and gave me an armful of maps for navigating myself around the city.
However as most of the attractions shut at 4pm in the winter there was no point venturing far so had a quick bite to eat and decided to set off early the following morning to explore instead....
Sunday 20 January 2008
Robert Downey Junior
Sunday 20th January
First stop of today was Harajuki, known for its funky boutiques along the interestingly named Takeshita street and the strangely dressed individuals who stand around dressed in who knows what waiting to be photographed. Someone has to do it I suppose and it is good to gawp at.
Afterwards we wandered around Yoyogi park which is beautiful in itself, before arriving at the Meiji Jingu Shrine, a memorial to the Emperor Meiji who died in 1912 and his empress Shoker. The shrine is filled with hundreds of small wooden plaques left daily by visitors with messages asking for good health for their families. There was a wedding going on at the time which was interesting to watch.
We then went to one of Tokyo's top hotels for lunch, the Park Hyatt. Dining on the 52nd storey we had amazing views of the entire city plus ate like kings. For only £30 we had a glass of champers, as much as you can buffet for starters, main meal (we all had lamb chops) followed by as many desserts as you can manage. My eyes were bigger than my belly and am feeling rather full still sat here writing this.
The toilets themselves were a sight in their own right with automatic toilet lid, heated seats, and buttons for everything from a bottom massage to a wash and dry! On our way out of the hotel we bumped into Robert Downey Junior - first celeb spot of my trip!
We then were planning a quick look around the sword museum but unfortunately it shuts early on Sunday so headed home instead via Shinjuku station (the busiest in Japan with over 60 exits, Clapham is nothing in comparison)
Am off to Kyoto tomorrow..
First stop of today was Harajuki, known for its funky boutiques along the interestingly named Takeshita street and the strangely dressed individuals who stand around dressed in who knows what waiting to be photographed. Someone has to do it I suppose and it is good to gawp at.
Afterwards we wandered around Yoyogi park which is beautiful in itself, before arriving at the Meiji Jingu Shrine, a memorial to the Emperor Meiji who died in 1912 and his empress Shoker. The shrine is filled with hundreds of small wooden plaques left daily by visitors with messages asking for good health for their families. There was a wedding going on at the time which was interesting to watch.
We then went to one of Tokyo's top hotels for lunch, the Park Hyatt. Dining on the 52nd storey we had amazing views of the entire city plus ate like kings. For only £30 we had a glass of champers, as much as you can buffet for starters, main meal (we all had lamb chops) followed by as many desserts as you can manage. My eyes were bigger than my belly and am feeling rather full still sat here writing this.
The toilets themselves were a sight in their own right with automatic toilet lid, heated seats, and buttons for everything from a bottom massage to a wash and dry! On our way out of the hotel we bumped into Robert Downey Junior - first celeb spot of my trip!
We then were planning a quick look around the sword museum but unfortunately it shuts early on Sunday so headed home instead via Shinjuku station (the busiest in Japan with over 60 exits, Clapham is nothing in comparison)
Am off to Kyoto tomorrow..
Love Hotel Hill
Saturday 19th January
Spent the morning wandering around the district of Shibuya known as Love Hotel Hill. Yes it is exactly as it sounds.. Due to the fact that a number of Japanese households are very large, accommodating all the extended family, there is little chance for any privacy. As a result a number of hotels have sprung up offering 'rests' for a maximum of a three hour stay day or for the night. Caroline and I found much amusement in the signs, however couldn't quite pluck up the courage to venture inside any to take a look (although according to the guide book one can do!)
Stopped off at a local Japanese fast-food restaurant for a bowl of noodle soup - very filling, before heading to Asakusa to visit the Kannon Temple. The temple is beautiful and one of the oldest surviving temples in Japan (founded in the 7th century, although had to be rebuilt following the earthquakes).
Just outside the temple there was a large crowd gathered around an incense bowl where the Japanese were wafting the smoke over each other and rubbing it in their hair. I have since discovered that the smoke (aka the breath of gods) is known for is curative powers.
Also visited the Asakusa Jingo Shinto Shrine, the pagoda (2nd highest in Japan) and wandered around the market stalls (Nakamisi-Dori district). Had my first sweet saki. Although it warmed me up it was too sweet even for me so won't be having a coconut based one again in a hurry. Coincidentally I also saw the only other two backpackers off my entire flight here taking in the sights of Asakusa.
Next stop was Ginza, the shopping district with all the exclusive department stalls (known as the place where silver is minted). One of the attractions of the area is allegedly the Tokyo International Forum, an impressive glass building which resembles a ship. Or so they say! After what felt an age trying to locate it, due to Japan having very few street names, we finally came across it and wish we hadn't bothered. So for any of you planning to visit Japan a tip from me - leave this one out as it isn't worth it.
After all the excitement for the day we headed back for munchies and movies
Spent the morning wandering around the district of Shibuya known as Love Hotel Hill. Yes it is exactly as it sounds.. Due to the fact that a number of Japanese households are very large, accommodating all the extended family, there is little chance for any privacy. As a result a number of hotels have sprung up offering 'rests' for a maximum of a three hour stay day or for the night. Caroline and I found much amusement in the signs, however couldn't quite pluck up the courage to venture inside any to take a look (although according to the guide book one can do!)
Stopped off at a local Japanese fast-food restaurant for a bowl of noodle soup - very filling, before heading to Asakusa to visit the Kannon Temple. The temple is beautiful and one of the oldest surviving temples in Japan (founded in the 7th century, although had to be rebuilt following the earthquakes).
Just outside the temple there was a large crowd gathered around an incense bowl where the Japanese were wafting the smoke over each other and rubbing it in their hair. I have since discovered that the smoke (aka the breath of gods) is known for is curative powers.
Also visited the Asakusa Jingo Shinto Shrine, the pagoda (2nd highest in Japan) and wandered around the market stalls (Nakamisi-Dori district). Had my first sweet saki. Although it warmed me up it was too sweet even for me so won't be having a coconut based one again in a hurry. Coincidentally I also saw the only other two backpackers off my entire flight here taking in the sights of Asakusa.
Next stop was Ginza, the shopping district with all the exclusive department stalls (known as the place where silver is minted). One of the attractions of the area is allegedly the Tokyo International Forum, an impressive glass building which resembles a ship. Or so they say! After what felt an age trying to locate it, due to Japan having very few street names, we finally came across it and wish we hadn't bothered. So for any of you planning to visit Japan a tip from me - leave this one out as it isn't worth it.
After all the excitement for the day we headed back for munchies and movies
Hachiko the dog statue
Friday 18th January
Woke up with a bit of a fright this morning as was convinced it was two thirty in the afternoon - the joy of jet lag! Eventually got out of bed around 11am and spent the afternoon wandering around Shibuya and reading up on the sights of Tokyo and the surrounding areas. Was pleased to discover that Starbucks have the names of their drinks in both English and Japanese so with a bit of pointing I could successfully order my regular Chai Tea Latte.
Met Caroline after work and wondered around Omote-Sande, Tokyo's exclusive shopping district, just a shame I haven't the money or the space in my bag to buy anything. Another time maybe.
Also visited Hachiko, the dog statue (one of Shibuya's top attractions and meeting places). The statue was built in memory of a faithful little dog who used to walk with his owner every morning to Shibuya station and await his return. The dog continued to stay at the station for ten years following the owners death at work in 1925 and as a result the residents of Shibuya built a statue in the dogs memory when he finally passed away.
Woke up with a bit of a fright this morning as was convinced it was two thirty in the afternoon - the joy of jet lag! Eventually got out of bed around 11am and spent the afternoon wandering around Shibuya and reading up on the sights of Tokyo and the surrounding areas. Was pleased to discover that Starbucks have the names of their drinks in both English and Japanese so with a bit of pointing I could successfully order my regular Chai Tea Latte.
Met Caroline after work and wondered around Omote-Sande, Tokyo's exclusive shopping district, just a shame I haven't the money or the space in my bag to buy anything. Another time maybe.
Also visited Hachiko, the dog statue (one of Shibuya's top attractions and meeting places). The statue was built in memory of a faithful little dog who used to walk with his owner every morning to Shibuya station and await his return. The dog continued to stay at the station for ten years following the owners death at work in 1925 and as a result the residents of Shibuya built a statue in the dogs memory when he finally passed away.
Saturday 19 January 2008
Friday 18 January 2008
Arrived Safely!
After a long 10 hour flight (plus an hour delay to put a new wheel on - always reassuring) we finally touched down at Narita airport. Fortunately the guy sitting next to me had a screen that didn't work so he was moved, giving me a lot more room which was nice.
Managed to find the bus station absolutely fine although couldn't quite understand that there were at least 5 buses before mine so kept being turned away before mine eventually showed up. Caroline's school is in Shibuya and she had warned me in advance that there are very few street names and not many Japanese are confident enough to speak English so I was a little apprehensive about finding it.
I got off the bus a little disorientated but with my map and directions I was able to navigate myself to the school successfully, pick up keys and head by train to Carolines without any mishaps. Caroline has a lovely spacious two bed house just outside Shibuya (the main shopping district) - much bigger than I was expecting from what I had read about Japanese accomodation.
The afternoon I spent trying to get myself acquainted to the area before Caroline came home. We then went to a Japanese pub for the evening (izakaya) with 14 teachers which was good fun. Having a set men was an eye opener where I got to try everything from boiled Yam/radish (not so nice) to tofu, some cheesecake thing and pumpkin and raw tuna on crackers. Things seem surprisingly good value for money too - £15 for dinner and drinks.
I was introduced to my first Japanese cultural differences of the evening too whereby you take your shoes off on arrival and place them in lockers and walk around in socks. When you go to the toilet flip flops are provided. You also never tip in Japan (although very occasionally some restaurants include service charge apparently).
Managed to find the bus station absolutely fine although couldn't quite understand that there were at least 5 buses before mine so kept being turned away before mine eventually showed up. Caroline's school is in Shibuya and she had warned me in advance that there are very few street names and not many Japanese are confident enough to speak English so I was a little apprehensive about finding it.
I got off the bus a little disorientated but with my map and directions I was able to navigate myself to the school successfully, pick up keys and head by train to Carolines without any mishaps. Caroline has a lovely spacious two bed house just outside Shibuya (the main shopping district) - much bigger than I was expecting from what I had read about Japanese accomodation.
The afternoon I spent trying to get myself acquainted to the area before Caroline came home. We then went to a Japanese pub for the evening (izakaya) with 14 teachers which was good fun. Having a set men was an eye opener where I got to try everything from boiled Yam/radish (not so nice) to tofu, some cheesecake thing and pumpkin and raw tuna on crackers. Things seem surprisingly good value for money too - £15 for dinner and drinks.
I was introduced to my first Japanese cultural differences of the evening too whereby you take your shoes off on arrival and place them in lockers and walk around in socks. When you go to the toilet flip flops are provided. You also never tip in Japan (although very occasionally some restaurants include service charge apparently).
Monday 14 January 2008
Almost There..
Having spent the day looking at everything I am planning to take with me and the size of my rucksack, I have no idea as yet quite how it is all going to go in. Think I will wait until tomorrow before I tackle it as can't face it tonight!
Less than 48 hours to go now before I arrive in Tokyo and start my adventure
Will write soon
Claire xxx
Less than 48 hours to go now before I arrive in Tokyo and start my adventure
Will write soon
Claire xxx
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